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Why we don't talk about concentrations

Posted by Skintology Stockholm on


We have had a few questions about concentrations and why we don’t state them on our products. So, we thought we’d address that topic here today. You can also find the short version and answers to other frequently asked questions on our FAQ page here.

For any other information, you can contact us at info@skintology.se for more information. Always happy to help!

The INCI list

First, don’t stare yourself blind at the INCI-list. Is it really worth removing other good ingredients, to move up a certain active, without actually increasing the concentration, just so that it will look better? For example, our Hyaluronic Concentrate has sodium hyaluronate as the 7th ingredients on the list:

aqua (water), aloe barbadensis leaf juice, glycerin, niacinamide, sodium PCA, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, triticum vulgare (wheat) germ extract, saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, pantolactone, phenoxyethanol, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, PVP, sodium phytate, sodium metabisulfite, alcohol, ethylhexylglycerin, citric acid

We could however remove all the ingredients in between the water and hyaluronic acid, and it would look like this:

aqua (water), sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, triticum vulgare (wheat) germ extract, saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, pantolactone, phenoxyethanol, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, PVP, sodium phytate, sodium metabisulfite, alcohol, ethylhexylglycerin, citric acid

Looks better right? But all that did was increase the water content and we removed ingredients that contributes a great deal to the quality and the results of the product. It did not make the product better, if anything, it wouldn’t be as good. And most importantly, it doesn’t mean the concentration of the active is any higher.

Remember, it’s rarely just one active alone that gives the complete result. Many actives also work wonders at low levels – concentration isn’t always everything.

Concentration levels

So regardless of all the above, why do we not talk about concentrations? Due to different ways of both calculating and communicating concentrations, we have chosen not to state any.

For example, hyaluronic acid is a white powder that must be mixed with water before adding it to the rest of the formulation. As the powder is not easily solved, it is possible to buy ready-made solutions of hyaluronic acid and water. These solutions normally contain 1-2% hyaluronic acid. This means if you use 5% hyaluronic acid solution, the actual concentration of pure hyaluronic acid is 0,05-0,1%. However, some ingredient suppliers then claim the INCI of the solution to be only sodium hyaluronate, not water (and) sodium hyaluronate. This makes it possible for brands to claim the hyaluronic acid concentration to be 5%.

This example can be applied to more ingredients, which is why we focus only on making great formulas that will do great things for your skin instead of the quantity of specific ingredients.

Please note that this is a general example and not an example of a specific supplier, brand or product.

For more information, you can always contact us via email info@skintology.se

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